Showing posts with label Gambia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gambia. Show all posts

Wednesday, 16 September 2009

Butchers Restaurant - great place to dine!

One of my friends has dubbed me a bit of a foodie - not sure the tag totally suits me, but I do love finding nice restaurants where the food not only tantalises the taste buds, but is also served with a smile and doesn't pull on the purse strings too much.

The Gambia's tourist industry is gradually progressing, providing some excellent restaurants and wonderful experiences. During my time there one restaurant in particular became my favourite - The Butchers Shop Restaurant.

This restaurant actually started life as a butchers shop and although it still operates a wonderful delicatessen, the restaurant is now the main focus of the business. The service is impeccable – perhaps less Gambian and more European – but the waiters take pride in their service and ensure your needs are well provided for.


The Butchers Shop Restaurant has a wonderful menu and caters for breakfast, lunch and dinner. For breakfast, the farmhouse omelette with beef is delicious and became our family favourite. Both breakfast and lunch are available at very reasonable prices – the evening menu is more pricey but well worth it! The most memorable evening meal I had was the lamb shank – the meat was so tender it literally fell off the bone and the complimentary tastes of herbs and fresh vegetables made my mouth water. I have never tasted anything so divine!

They also have a great selection of wine and local drinks such as Bissap (Jus de Bissap is a traditional non-alcoholic Senegalese drink that's been called 'Senegal's National tea' and is made from an infusion of the flowers of the hibiscus plant. Served with ice it is absolutely delicious and quickly became my favourite beverage!) and baobab juice (another traditional Senegalese fruit juice drink made of rehydrated baobab fruit pulp).

If you visit The Gambia, you simply MUST visit The Butchers Shop Restaurant – impeccable service, one of the most stylish restaurants in The Gambia, world class food and music, fresh produce and excellent service.

The Butchers Shop Restaurant
130 Kairaba Avenue
Fajara
P.O Box 216
Banjul
The Gambia

Tel: (220) 4495069

Local Language - useful words & phrases

I have included a few useful words and phrases from the Mandinka language which I hope will prove useful to anyone visiting the gorgeous Gambia! I'm really not sure if the spellings are 100% accurate, but they should be pretty close!I am useless when it comes to learning languages - it's just not one of my strong points - so I only managed to learn how to say 'hi' and 'how are you' and was then totally lost at the responses I received...There are many tribes in The Gambia but the main ones are Mandinka, Wolof, Fula and Jola, each having its own language and traditions.

Whilst the various tribal languages are used by many Gambians to converse between themselves, the official language and language taught in most schools is English, as The Gambia is a former British colony.

Greetings and pleasantries:
Isaama - good morning
Tiloo ye diyaa - good day to you
I nimbaara - you are well?
Salaam aleekum - peace be with you
A baraka - thank you
Tambi nan - come in


People related words:

dimbaayaa - family
baamaa - mother
faamaa - father
dindino - child
teerimaa - friend

These may find the following words useful in a hotel, for example if you need an extra pillow!

alimooroo - cupboard
daraboo - bed sheet
kamoo - toilet
kullaarano - pillow
laabuno - bedroom
mbajoo - blanket

The Gambia is a country where haggling is a must - you should never be afraid to haggle and never accept the first price offered otherwise you risk being ripped off. The fact is, white visitors stand out and the locals believe that every tourist is minted (and in worldly terms, most are) but visitors shouldn't feel pressured to pay extorsionate amounts for something the locals would pay mere pence for. Yes - support the tourist industry, help locals earn a living, and pay a fair price for goods and services - but don't be ripped off in the process. My exhusband actually had to ask me to hide while he negotiated a fare with a taxi driver because as soon as the taxi drivers saw me, the tubab, the fares they wanted to charge went up 10-fold.

Remember that most Gambians speak good English but it is always nice to try to communicate in the local language - it is fun, culturally satisfying and genuinely appreciated by the locals! I really need to learn to speak Mandinka as my in-laws do not speak English and although this might be a blessing in some respects (we've all heard the jokes about in-laws haven't we?!) I would really like to get to know them and especially find out about my mother-in-law who has had a vastly different life to my own.We went shopping for batik and tie-dyed fabric and discovered that the less touristy areas and individual street sellers offered much better deals than the more touristy batik factories.
So a couple of useful words to remember when going shopping include:
daa feemaa - cheap

kodoo - money

I hope to add to this in the future as I learn more, but in the meantime, if anyone out there has any comments, additions or suggestions they would like to make, please feel free to contribute! I currently have no idea how to string a sentence together but hopefully that will change after my next visit!

Lamin Lodge

Whilst in The Gambia we visited Lamin Lodge a number of times and each time offered a slightly different experience. Lamin Lodge is a unique and wonderful place to visit – highly recommended!

To get to Lamin Lodge you need to leave the main streets of Lamin village and head towards the mangroves by small winding roads. The way is bumpy and sometimes tricky to navigate because the roads are more like dried up river beds! During rainy season torrents of water flow down the dusty roads and erode them away. A 4x4 would certainly have been helpful, but we managed to drive there safely in a Peugot 207!

The scenery is amazing! We passed through lots of green grassland and saw Baobab trees which grow to amazing heights and widths, and look like gnarly giants! The fruit from the trees is used to make Baobab juice – a refreshing white coloured drink which I can only compare to coconut milk, which, in fairness, is not a very good comparison as it has its very own unique taste. Definitely something to try if you visit The Gambia!

The drive to Lamin Lodge took roughly 20 minutes. The site was predominantly used as an oyster farm and we were met by a number of friendly fishermen who greeted us and offered their services including tours, bird watching and fishing trips.


Lamin Lodge is a wooden lodge built out of Mangrove wood. Do not be misled by the name ‘lodge’ though – this is no log cabin! Lamin Lodge is an impressive 3 stories high and reminded me of the Swiss Family Robinson’s tree house! It stands in the midst of the mangroves, on the edge of the winding river, and offers fantastic views across the mangrove canopies. The sunsets from the top of the Lodge were breathtaking and so romantic.

The path to the lodge runs through the swampy mangroves. When the water level was low we could see lots of funny looking loach things – brown, slippery looking fishy things with googly eyes! If you’ve seen the Guinness advert when the blokes at the bar devolve into cavemen and eventually become little fishy things that go “bleurk” at the end of the ad, well, that’s what these things were! I digress…
When the water level was high the areas surrounding the path were alive with huge shoals of fish (probably feasting on the little brown loach things!).

As we got closer to the lodge, a group of monkeys appeared from the mangroves and found my 2 year old son highly amusing. He had a dummy in his mouth which caused great curiosity in 1 little monkey who tried to steal it! Poor Eli didn’t really know what to make of it and burst into tears! Because Lamin Lodge is such a popular tourist attraction, the monkeys are used to people and are a tad cheeky but offer great entertainment.

At Lamin Lodge you can eat, drink and enjoy the glorious scenes across the mangrove canopy. Staff are friendly and helpful, the food is simple but good and photo opportunities plentiful.

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask! I’m happy to provide answers to most questions and would be happy to provide contact details of a few locals who would be happy to help you on your travels.

Katchikali Crocodile Pool

One extremely hot sunny day we decided to visit the tourist town of Bakau, where we drove to the Katchikali Crocodile pool. The site was apparently discovered hundreds of years ago and is home to more than 100 crocodiles (gulp!).

We walked up to the entrance and I thought I could see a big fat croc laying in the shade of some trees about 50 metres away, but decided it must have been a carving and certainly not a real croc as there were boundary fences between me and it. As you have no doubt guessed, it was very much real and very much free to wander wherever it pleased! Anyway, moving on...

We walked through an informative and well presented museum area where pictures, items of historical relevance and information were displayed for its visitors. Unfortunately I was tearing around after a rather hyper 2 year old to take much note of the historical bits, but my family were impressed!


After the museum area we entered a shady wood with a little winding path running amongst the trees. The trees formed intriguing shapes – 1 looked like a human ribcage – pretty amazing! There were many shuffling noises in the undergrowth which could, under ‘normal’ circumstances, have been quite eerie, had it not been for my little boy (who has no sense of fear whatsoever) legging it merrily through the plant life, causing a kafuffle. I actually felt sorry for the little lizards that had the misfortune of being in his path – they were probably relaxing in the shade, hiding from the midday sun, and were rudely awoken by stomping size 6s… Thankfully I was able to grab and detain him for the remainder of the walk, which was a good thing too since we rounded a corner to find 5 BIG crocs basking in the sun (no fence – just crocs).

There were a number of supervisors hovering around to ensure no one got eaten (reassuring!). One of the men approached us and asked if we wanted to touch George – the oldest and friendliest croc at Katchikali. Since becoming a mother I have lost all my backbone, and was not overly enthralled with the idea, however, with a little cajoling from my family and the reassurance of the guide, I sheepishly approached the tail end of the slumbering giant, with my son firmly restrained. I was staying as far away from the sharp end as possible to avoid any unfortunate accidents, however, my son had other ideas. Whether he decided the croc was a bit boring lying there, all peaceful and relaxed, or just decided he didn’t really like it, I’m not sure, but, all in a split second, he announced “scary dragon!” and kicked it in the side… I almost died. My son thought it was hilarious. The croc didn’t flinch. Thank the Lord! I stayed there long enough to have a picture taken then hastily got myself safely behind the camera to take pictures of the rest of the family.



The crocodile pool is considered a magical place. Bathing in the water is believed to cure infertility and confer good fortune. In my opinion, anyone who bathes in the pool is 2 pence short of a pound and I’d prefer to be infertile than eaten by big scary reptiles! The pool was quite large and the water a thick green texture… I say texture as opposed to colour because it seemed so, so solid! Crocodiles of all different sizes basked in the sunlight on the banks, and lurked under the green slime of the pool. The only indication they were there was an occasional air bubble or the blink of some slightly protruding eyes… A little unnerving…

We took tonnes of pictures of these spectacular beasties and I have to say they did put on a bit of a show for us too! A couple of BIG crocs had a bit of a lover’s tiff which resulted in a “who can open their mouth wider and hiss loudest” contest. It was great! My mum almost provided further entertainment by unwittingly getting a bit too close to a croc which was apparently pregnant and rather grumpy (I can relate – poor thing). In mum’s defence it did blend into the path rather well but it was over 5 ft long so I still wonder how she managed to miss it! Thumbs up to the staff for keeping us out of trouble though!



Occasionally sacred rituals are held at Katchikali Crocodile Pool with drumming and dancing. We did not get the opportunity to experience this, but I imagine it would be a very atmospheric and special experience indeed.

Abuko Nature Reserve

Me and my family love nature and the outdoors, so we organised a day trip to the Abuko Nature Reserve. Abuko was officially declared a Nature Reserve in 1968, and is situated outside the village of Lamin in the Kombo North District, approximately 25km from Banjul. 




At the reserve we met with our guide, Musa Manneh, who had a vast knowledge of the nature reserve and its wildlife, and specialised in ornithology (birds).

We began our walk into the dense greenery. The vegetation was amazing – the massive trees and stunning green canopy were breathtaking. They also provided a wonderful shield from the midday sun which glimmered through the leaves.





We walked through the forest along dusty paths lined with giant termite hills over 7 ft tall, which I personally found pretty amazing! As we walked Musa pointed out the various types of plant life and gave us an interesting run down of some of the plants medicinal and everyday uses.

We arrived at the education centre which overlooked the crocodile pool, and took a moment to appreciate the wonderful views of the pool and its surroundings from the raised balcony area. Whilst we stood, many exotic looking birds flew over the pool which was a real thrill, and we even spotted a sleeping crocodile skulking in the shadows at the pool’s edge.

We continued our wanderings through the forest, catching occasional glimpses of monkeys running through the undergrowth.

We came to an opening and found an assortment of caged animals, a refreshment bar and lots of rather cheeky monkeys! Some of the caged animals were apparently part of an orphanage - a temporary home for animals and birds that had once been held in captivity illegally. The wildlife authorities have an ongoing programme of confiscating captive wild animals, and reintroducing them into the wild. We saw a few monkeys and parrots.






There were also caged areas housing baboons and hyenas – truly amazing animals! We were able to see them up close and were completely astonished at the size of these creatures! The animals were obviously well cared for and seemed very happy in their enclosures.





We were able to buy bags of peanuts for about 50p from the refreshment stall. We fed these to the monkeys and parrots – an activity greatly enjoyed by my 2 year old son! Some of the monkeys were a little timid, but others would quite confidently sit on your knee and gently prize your fingers open to get to the nuts hidden inside! It was a great experience! Not only did I get to touch the monkeys, but I also got to smell them – it reminded me of barnyard and soggy dog smell!




There were also a great many vultures loitering around – again a thrill for the bird enthusiast in me! To see them just flying around free and so close was spectacular! I have to say they aren’t my favourite bird, as they aren’t very pretty, but the size and presence of the birds was certainly worth some respect.

After some welcome liquid refreshment we continued on our travels through the forest. Musa took us to a photo hide which looked out across a pool. He gave my family a wonderful explanation of the wildlife and birds in the vicinity. Unfortunately I had spotted a rather large spider and a few other creepy crawlies on the ceiling of the hide and fled in a bit of a blind panic (doing the typical girlie thing). Musa told me they were harmless, but in fairness the spider did look a tad menacing (mind you anything with more than 4 legs tends to set me on edge).








As we strolled down the path once-more, Musa signalled for us all to slowdown and be quiet. He pointed to a gorgeous orange coloured monkey sat in a bush right beside the path. We had not seen a monkey like this throughout our travels and it was adorable!





So, after an afternoon of wildlife filled wandering, we came to the end of our travels. We took a look around the little craft market at the end of the nature reserve – I bought the cutest little hippo family – they looked so wrinkly and kinda grumpy! My sisters bought some cute wooden carvings and pretty necklaces, then we hopped into a taxi bus and headed back to Lamin for some top nosh and a lie down!




The guided tour was fantastic – I couldn’t recommend it enough! If you are planning on visiting The Gambia, please look up Musa Manneh – he will offer a fair price for his services and really knows his stuff!

MUSA MANNEH can be contacted by the following means:


Address: c/o Talibo Bojang
Banjul International Airport
Departures Hall
Sky Bar
The Gambia
West Africa

Email:
musaamanneh56@yahoo.com

Telephone: 00220 7834098


General Info:



Musa tour is a free-lands bird watching tour operation taking customers to all the prescribed places for bird watching in The Gambia. Musa provides a service based upon your individual interest and your budget, but is definitely good value for money.

He trained at Abuko Nature Reserve where he became a certified tour guide, and he caters for both small and large groups.

If you would like further information please drop him an email – he’d be delighted to hear from you!